So apart from learning that Deighton taught Caine how to crack an egg I learnt that my vintage Russell Hobbs Model 3008 looks cooler than an Insta-Brewer. And it makes damn fine coffee.

Without really trying we seem to have eaten at one of the most talked about Gastro Pubs in Wales. The Old Red Cow in Adpar, Newcastle Emlyn, (just the right side of the River Teifi to put it in Ceredigion) is the restaurant of chef Ludovic Dieumegard and General manager Lowri Jones. They describe it as a ‘new gastro-pub …. serving food of a high quality’. Of late though it has become a little more than that. Ludovic’s appearance on the BBC’s Masterchef: The Professionals has the critics raving.

“I Think Ludovic Dieumguard is a Magician With Food” “High Wire Trickery” “Extraordinary” “A Miracle! Who Is This Guy?”
John Walsh, Food Critic, The Independent

“Bags and Bags of Flavour” “He’s Good. He’s Very Good!”. “If He Wants To Go All The Way, He Can.”
Michel Roux Junior

“Amazing” “Really, Really Clever Stuff” “Fantastic!”
Jay Rayner, Food Critic, The Observer

“A Very, Very Talented Chef”
Andy Hayler, Food Critic

“I Do Believe We Have Uncovered An Absolute Superstar” “Madly Inventive and It Tastes Divine… He’s a Very Very Clever Boy!” “Talk About Talent and Flair, That Guy Has Got It In Absolute Abundance!” “That Food Was Simply Outstanding” “Just Stunning”
Greg Wallace, BBC Masterchef

To be honest I haven’t seen the show so wasn’t able to share in the disappointement when Ludovic was dumped out of the show despite being many people’s ‘shoe (or should the be ‘choux’?)-in to win.

Anyway fate would have it that gastro-naut sister and brother in law were here to stay for the Halloween frolics; our lovely Mum and Dad stepped up to the plate to babysit and, better still, foot the bill! Astounding.

So I expect you’re wondering, was it any good?

You bet! First up, 3 courses, with drinks and including tip, it came in at under £40 per head. For this kind of world class cooking, 20 minutes from our doorstep an utter bargain.

The simple and straightforward menu doesn’t mess about; it’s all about what Ludovic can do best. Quality ingredients simply presented and beautifully cooked. And I mean beautifully cooked. Not well, not competently, but beautifully. The Terrine of Pork and Apple starter was sublime and complemented with a cheeky piccalilli. Yes that’s right, picallili. That he has rehabilitated piccalilli (of sulphurous yellow memory) is itself a remarkable but that he has combined it with a creamy soft delicately flavoured pork terrine means that it can only a matter of time before he’ll be turning water into wine.

Next: Rib Eye Steak with frites, horseradish butter and dressed leaves or steak and chips. Also known in our house as ‘Birthday Tea’. Did he know I was coming? The steak, cooked for me ‘English Rare’, was greedily demolished and I only regret I couldn’t have had it twice. I love horseradish with my beef; and here, subtly flavouring a neat roundel of butter it actually drooled over the meat, disappearing with the last mouthful.

I’m not going to dwell on puddings because to be fair I’m not all that fussed about them. I did opt however for the Chocolate Truffle Cake with Creme Anglais you know just to see what is was like. Eating it while eyeing enviously Spouse’s giant Creme Brulee was difficult but as ever I’m always ready to take one for the team. Delicious, creamy, almost frictionless on the tongue, it even managed a distant hint of saltiness. Yum.

Er… recommended. Go there while you can.

For more information you can visit The Red Cow on Facebook.

Red Cow
Adpar
Newcastle Emlyn
Ceredigion
SA38 9EH
Tel: 01239 710588
Wed – Sun:
11:30 am – 12:00 pm

Lowri and Ludo

Sample Menu From July 2009

Starters / Cwrs Cyntaf:
Salt & Chilli Frog’s Legs with Crunchy Cabbage Salad – £6.50
Coesau Broga gyda Halen a Chilli, Salad Bresych
Paté de Campagne with Apple Chutney & Toast – £6.50
Paté Cartref gyda Siytni Afal a Thost
Squid & Chorizo Watercress Salad – £6.90
Salad Berw’r Dwr gyda Squid & Chorizo
Main Course / Prif Gwrs:
Rib Eye Steak & Frites, Horseradish Butter & Dressed Leaves – £15.50
Stecen ‘Rib Eye’ a Frites gyda Menyn Horseradish a Salad
Pan Fried Fillet of Sea Bream with warm Samphire Salad & Citrus Dressing – £12.90
Filed o Fream y Môr wedi Ffrio gyda Salad Samphire Cynnes & Dressin’ Sitrws
Tomato & Spring Onion Polenta with Sauté Courgettes & Dressed Leaves (V) – £10.50
Polenta Tomato a Shibwns gyda Sauté Corbwmpen a Salad
Pan Roasted Chicken with Crushed Potatoes & Tarragon Cream – £13
Ffowlyn wedi Rhostio gyda Thatws Mathredig a Saws Hufen a Tarragon
Dessert (all home made)/ Pwdin:
All priced at / I gyd yn £5.50
Chocolate Parfait with Berry Compote
Parfait Siocled gyda Compote Ffrwythau
Lemon Tart & Raspberry Sorbet
Teisen Lemwn gyda Sorbet Mafon
Vanilla Crème Brulée
Crème Brulée Fanila
A Selection of Ice Cream (Caramel, Chocolate, White Chocolate & Raspberry, Raspberry Sorbet) £1.50 per scoop
Dewis o Hufen Iâ (Caramel, Siocled, Siocled Gwyn a Mafon, Sorbet Mafon)

I like them off the briar, I like them in a crumble but best of all I like them stewed; a little sugar and then enjoyed with (say) Conti’s vanilla ice cream.

Here are some berries I enjoyed in 2007.